More from Doug and Everest. A`ll I can say on this one is Holy Cow!!!
Hello All,
I went through the Khoumbu Icefall today for the first time and it lived up to it's reputation. It was both potentially dangerous and unquestionably spectacular. We woke early around 5 am and although it had been snowing fairly hard when we went to bed, the snow covered ground was now illuminated by an almost full moon that hung in a perfectly cloudless sky. The first part of the route was a gradual up and down through almost mystically frozen ponds and the sharp jagged edges rising above our heads thrust there by the pressure of the ice fall slamming into the relative flat of the khoumbu glacier where we have our Base Camp. I soon found myself up ahead out on my own from my three other campanions and was feeling very much at home in the secluded jumble of ice. About a fifth of the way up I hit the first ladder over a crevasse. An amazing convenience having a route put through the ice-fall at the begining of every season using alluminum ladders to bridge huge crevasses that would take too long to rappel into their cold depth only to have to climb out the other side 5 to 15 feet from where you just stood. The same thing was done in Sir Edmond Hillary's day except then they would use sapplings instead of ladders, unfortunately adding greatly to a deforestization problem the Nepalese highlands are already suffering. But seeing as aluminum ladder lengths are fixed and crevasse width is not, occasionally there would be three or four ladders lashed in sequence to bridge a rather large gap. You then have to walk across these spidery bridges being careful not to get your crampons caught as you flex up and down over the abyss. Some of the ladder placements and even some of the ladders themselves ae quite commical in their precariousness. As I got higher and higher into the icefall you get these great building sized seracs as promised leaning over your route at somewhat gravity defying angles. I was needless to say very rushed in skirting below! them and front pointing the walls between them to get through as quickly as possible. I had just flown up a 70ft face (as much as someone can fly at 19,000ft, but the front points were totally bomber as the ice is the deepest blue and absolutely solid) and most relieved to come over the top of this particularly drunkenly leaning serac and stepped onto a large desk-sized block of ice that looked completely secure but when weighted decided to tip like a toy-top on end. Must remember, this is a moving river of ice-blocks. We can hear it moving all night. As well, we can hear the many avalanches comming off the faces surrounding the ice fall and especially from Pumori behind us. In fact I just heard a humongous slide coming off Pumori. Its like hearing a blast of thunder while riding the roof of a freight train. I made it up to Camp 1 in about 3 hours which is fast for the ice fall and gaining another 2500 ft. It's not a race, but I'm glad I am still feeling so strong and at 20,000 ft. I spent about an hour up there, but as I was only doing it to acclimatize I then headed back down - around, over, under and through crevasse and serac alike, like some scurring mouse through a collapsing woodpile as the sun got higher and the creaks and groans got louder.
Oh. It's snowing again. I expect more fireworks from Pumori.
All the best,
Doug