Tri-Llama Productions

Weblog
Archive...
Powered by Blogger

Travelogues
Vietnam 2000
Cross-Country '99
Europe '98

Photo Essays
Lars Climbs Mt. Shasta
Lars' Kick-ass Halloween Bash
Fright Night at Franklin Farms

TheAngryPen
09-12-2000
2 Parties
08-18-2000
Al's Acceptance
08-10-2000
Gore's Choice
More...


Saturday, April 21, 2001

Was it something I said???
posted by MES 7:22 PM ET | discuss | link

Friday, April 20, 2001

During a break at base camp, Doug takes a minute to remind us that we are still humans and that it's not all death and ice at 17,500, there's also laundry to do:

Hello All:

The carry up to Camp II was fine except we had another storm and a huge dump of snow. Rather than getting stuck or having to break trail through deep snow, we dumped our loads of gear and headed back to Base Camp instead of spending the night. This weather can be frustrating and dangerous if you're not careful. Although yesterday was dense with clouds and snow we all wore our glacier glasses and sunscreen. We just saw a woman from another team who has 2nd degree burns on her face from yesterdays stormy weather. Last year there was a woman who took off her goggles on her way from Camp III to Camp IV and ended up Snowblind. Killing her chances at a summit bid. Today it's clear skies and absolutely beautiful with a fresh snowfall blanketing everything. It's very difficult to tell what the Everest massive will serve up.

I appreciate all the notes and messages that have been passed on to me from Brentwood High school friends, Harvard friends, friends of friends and those of you in LA. It's been great to hear from you all and I'm sorry I do not have time to respond to everyone individually. I hope the general e-mails will suffice. There have been some logistical questions that a couple of you have asked that I thought I would respond to now. In regards to our bathroom facilities here at Base Camp I refuse to go into that aspect as neither Bram Stoker nor Mary Shelley could come up with something as horrifying, but I am happy to discuss with you Laundry and Bathing;
Laundry: Yes we can do it. I like to call it "They still stand-up on their own" Occasionally on a sunny day we'll take our most odiferous offenders, get a bucket of boiled water (takes some time) and crack and fold the clothing into the bucket with some "environmentally safe biodegradable suds" (translated that means not very effective). Scrub mash and squeeze into a gray pulp and then look for a rock to dry them on because a warm rock gets you the best results in drying. However, as all the rocks around are covered in snow we resort to hanging them over the tent guy lines. At which point the cool winds, instead of air drying the clothes, turn them into frozen sculptures of clean clothes. Thus, what once stood dirty on its own stands clean and frozen on its own.

Hot Showers: well yes and no. Once again the key ingredient here is a sunny day and a lot of determination. We take a bucket of boiled water (again taking a long time) and a small bowl to scoop up the water from the bucket with. You take the scalding water pour it quickly over your body. Then take a bar of soap (The gentle Grapefruit liquid Soap that Lauren snuck in my bag remains sweetly fragrant and frozen in my tent) and scrub like crazy adding the quickly cooling water as needed. Unfortunately, most of the soapy water and a great deal of the grime end up back in the bucket you continue to draw from. After furiously washing the dreadlocked hair that for most of the night and day remains almost continually under one non-breathable hat or another, you dump the remaining now soapy, grimy, and now mostly cold water over your head to rinse off. Mmm the luxuries of Base Camp.

All is well,
I will e-mail soon.
Doug
posted by LT2 3:40 PM ET |
discuss | link


Thursday, April 19, 2001

New from Doug: Life between loads

Hello All,
After 2 days rest, we are heading up the mountain again tomorrow just ferrying loads up to Camp II. More food, clothing and gear. We wanted to take a load up to Camp III (23,000ft), but due to heavy snow which has caused a lot of avalanches down the Lhotse face, no one has been able to fix the face yet. So we contine hauling to Camp II and hopefully will be able to head up to Camp III and Camp IV in 4 or 5 days.,Too much time at Base Camp can drive you cabin crazy. Mostly just resting and eating. Though we did manage to make a scrabble board out of some candy bar boxes and there has been a fairly swift trade in books. Not that there is that much down time for reading and frankly the selection is quite limited. We've had some incredibly cold nights here recently at Base Camp even though during the day between snow flurries the sun can be quite warm. The food has been fairly redundant, but there's lots of it. I think if I never eat Dal Baht again after this trip is over I won't be too disappointed. Dal Baht is a staple of the Sherpa diet that is a mixture of Rice and Vegetable Curry with a Lentil broth. Occasionally we've had some Yak meat to spice things up, but Yaks are hard working animals and are only eaten when they have been worked too hard- to death. Needless to say the meat is a little on the tough side. Good thing we brought some of our own secret supplies.
All the best,
Doug
posted by LT2 12:04 PM ET |
discuss | link


We signed this guy last week, so I went to the closing night of his show last night. It was really good. I don't know what the future of the show is, but if you ever see Runt of the Litter in your neighborhood, check it out. And look for the movie to be fantastic, as well. RUDY can kiss my ass!
posted by LT2 11:36 AM ET | discuss | link

Wednesday, April 18, 2001

Mother Nature hates the third world.
posted by LT2 11:39 AM ET | discuss | link

Tuesday, April 17, 2001

Oh no! Mr. Showbiz has gotten rid of their 1-100 rating scale for movies! They've replaced it with a 1-5 scale. Here's their explanation, which makes no sense to me:
Take a deep breath. We understand that our new ratings scale may seem like a shock, but we're pretty sure you'll grow to love it as we do. Let's face it, our old 1-100 scale, distinctive as it may have been, was too broad. And our new system is designed for your benefit — as a guideline to whether you should spend your hard-earned cash to see a movie in theaters (and, if so, when), wait for a video rental, or simply not bother.
Too broad? If anything it was too specific, but that was what I loved about it. I loved the audacity that they were measuring the quality of a movie so accurately and precisely that they needed a scale with that level of precision. Gone are the days when we can marvel at how bad a movie such as Black Dog must be to get a 4/100! If that doesn't "guide" you to "not bother", then I don't know what will!
posted by MES 11:59 PM ET | discuss | link

Now, on a less serious note, you won't believe what you can do at Zombo.com. (Make sure your volume is turned up.)
posted by MES 10:40 PM ET | discuss | link

Since I had evolution on the mind, I thought I would see what was new in the world of Richard Dawkins. There's a cool lecture by him available at BoxMind.com called "Survival of the Fittest... the Fittest What?". It's a whole multimedia kind of thing. You get to see and hear him talking, you can read the transcript, which advances itself automatically, as well as look at pictures and video clips that are all timed to the presentation. For some reason, only the 10-minute introduction is available now. I figure they're either going to put the rest of it up soon, or you have to register and pay up to see the whole thing. (And yes, I'm so lazy that I haven't bother to figure out which it is. But hey, it's 8:00 and I want to go home.) Anyway, here's the low bandwidth version (56k), and the high bandwidth version (300k).
posted by MES 8:00 PM ET | discuss | link

More from Doug on the cusp of the stratosphere:

"Well We're back at Base Camp from Camp II. A successful acclimatization and gear haul? Yes. Uneventful? Not really. A few days ago, we woke up early to make our way up to Camp II and dump a load of gear for the upper part of the mountain. My pack only weighed around 40lbs but it felt like a million pounds at this altitude. Going through the Khoumbu Ice Fall it turned out not to slow me down much, but I was amazed how much of the route had changed from our last trip through two days earlier. Snow ridges over crevasses had collapsed, seracs had tipped over (fortunately not crushing anyone), and large blocks wedged between even larger blocks that had formed a somewhat mercurial set of stepping stones had melted creating a whole new set of temporary stones. The largest and most surprising change was right below Camp I where a football field sized crevasse had opened it's gapping maw and we now had to climb down into it's throat picking our way across and climb out the other side!. From Camp I up to Camp II it is only another two hours, but because it is pretty much a straight slog up the khoumbu and because the altitude is really starting to work you at this point, It seems much longer than the 4hour climb through the icefall. Fortunately for us it was overcast most of the way and intermittently snowing -that beautiful snow where occasionally the sun filters it's way through giving each initial snowflake it's own luminescence like some atmospheric phosphorescence. We slowly picked our way over and around larger crevasses some 3 to 15 feet across others of which were only 6 inches across but plunged hundreds of feet into the glacier. These little six inches will be the football field crevasses when they hit the steeper pitches above Camp I and at the top of the ice field. The last 300 yards up to Camp II felt more like 3 miles, but when we arrived, Babu Chiri's guys, who we are climbing the mountain with, had already put in one large tent at camp II to store gear and where we could melt snow for water and cook up our meals. After having some quick hot tea, Brant, Rick, Lahwang (a Berkley climber on our team) and I went out into the snow to chip out a couple of pads for our tents. If you have ever chipped out a pad for a tent in steep consistent snow, now imagine doing it at 20,900 ft (higher than the summit of McKinley) and where the ground is not the nice solid snow on top of a glacier, but all solid ice mixed with well embedded rocks of all sizes. Needless to say it was a little exhausting after a 6 hr climb up. The tents wouldn't be completely flat, but at least there would be two relatively flat areas inside of each to get some sleep on. The snow which provided some cover from the sun earlier in the day, decided to stick around and by the! e time we had crawled into our bags there were several fresh inches. Expecting the normal pattern of snow in the afternoons and clear skies in the morning we drifted off to sleep. Unfortunately the snow had other plans and we woke practically buried in our tents. Our plans to go up to the base of the Lhotse face were sunk. It would be too grueling work breaking trail up there and besides, there were too many avalanches coming off of Everest and Lhotse to make it that safe. So we spent a fitful day tent bound. One of the ironies here was that while it never ceased to snow the sun made it's way through the thin air and heated our tents to such a degree that at one point in the middle of the day I found myself in only my long underwear bottoms lying on my ridge rest with the tent flaps open and snow gently dusting me from time to time... and I was still hot. We broke the day of acclimatization up with a couple of macaroni or noodles or whatever "fancy" bland food we could ! bring ourselves to eat at altitude. I think people often think that those of us out on "great" adventures are often contemplating the important things in life, when most of the time what we are really thinking about is the food we are going to eat when we get back- crab cakes at the Ivy, Lobster ravioli at Chaya, a steak at the Palm, or an In & Out Burger on the way to or from climbing in Yosemite. The truth is there is a lot of time to think and if there is one thing that the mountains can definitely give you is a sense of the infinite and in doing so your relative insignificance within that infinite universe. Not in an existential sense but simply on an actual magnitude and temporal scale. It is then surviving in that lonely environment of the infite, in the very face of your insignificance that gives you an insight to whatever slight significance there may actually be inside of you. Oh. Also the other food I crave are the tuna fish sandwiches Lauren makes for me on Sun! day's when I'm making my way through a tonne of work.
Anyways, during the night the snow turned into a full fleged storm with 40-60mile/hr winds ripping at our tents and another 10 inches of snow that piled on us in the night. There was also an inch of snow inside the tent covering my sleeping bag. I had to leave a vent open in the ceiling of the tent and the wind was so strong that it blew the snow up between the rain fly and the main tent and through the vent. It was a cold and fairly sleepless night. We knew there were other teams down at Camp I, but we were the only four people who had advanced to Camp II to spend some time acclimitizing so far. At around 6:00am there was a break in the weather, so we quickly metled some ice for water and headed down the Khoumbu wanting to make it our choice whether we would spend another night at that altitude not the weather's. The icy wind that chased us down the Khoumbu made me fondly remember the heat wave of yesterday as we periodically stopped to turn our Gortexed backs into the wind! at particularly nasty gust. We slipped quickly down the Khoumbu (we didn't have on our crampons because with all the new snow they would have just balled up with snow and made it even more treacherous), but we were also being careful not to step into those crevasses that yesterday simply seemed pesky obstacles to our ascent and were now covered with a deceptive layer of snow. We made it back to Base Camp in just over 3 hrs with our trip through the Ice Fall being uneventful (except that many of the blocks of ice now covered in a few inches of snow looked at times more like a field of giant marshmallows than anything more menacing). The storm has chased us all the way to Base Camp and it's lightly snowing as I sit here typing. Funny, for those other teams (most of them) who spent the last couple of days at Base Camp the weather on the mountain was probably as eventful as it was to you. Hope none of you are caught in any storms right now literally or otherwise.
All the best,
Doug
posted by LT2 7:55 PM ET |
discuss | link


Good to see Tim McVeigh is a reasonable man on at least one subject.
posted by LT2 7:22 PM ET | discuss | link

Tomorrow's Diane Rehm Show on NPR should be interesting. It's Evolution vs. Intelligent Design. It airs at 10:00am on WAMU 88.5 here in DC. Her show is carried on lots of stations around the country, but none of them appears to be in California, but you'll be able to listen to it either live or after the fact at the link above. (Or, after this week, the archived link will be here.) For those of you unfamiliar with her show, she always devotes an entire hour to each topic, and has several well-respected guests who engage in a very civilized discussion on the topic at hand. There is very little childish name-calling. She takes few calls, and the callers are always well screened. It's really an excellent show that's low on noise, and high on signal.

(She's so polite, though, that I'm afraid I'm going to be infuriated by the respect that the Intelligent Design theory is going to receive.)
posted by MES 12:49 PM ET | discuss | link


Along the lines of the XLC discussion we've been having and the extreme sensations that we put our bodies through for fun. I took a lead climbing class last night with my roomate Tony. For three years we've been top rope climbing, which means the rope is run through an anchor at the top of the climb and the belayer takes up the slack as the climber (attached to the other end of the rope) climbs up. Lead climbing is different in that the climber clips his/her rope into little anchors which are spaced out about three to five feet apart as he goes and the belayer plays out slack, always staying ready to lock the rope off if the climber falls. In lead climbing, the most dangerous time for a climber is when he is just about to clip the rope into an anchor. At that point, he has pulled slack through the line to be able to reach the clip with the rope and has the most amount of slack out in the rope that he will ever have. If he falls at this point, he falls the distance to the last anchor he clipped PLUS the length of rope outstanding (the slack), plus the strech of the rope. So a five foot fall might turn into a fifteen foot "whipper" as they call them.

So last night on our last route, I was hanging upside down on the roof of an arch and reaching for a clip when I lost my grip. There were a lot of people watching me because our group had done really well in the training and our instructor decided to let us try an arch which is something he says he doesn't normally do, so the employees were understandably curious to see how we would do, which made every one else curious as well. Climbers are a strange bunch. They get really jazzed when other climbers do well and so they were all standing around cheering us on to our frist arch. When I lost my grip, I was at that most dangerous point, inches away from clipping in. I had about five feet of rope out and was really reaching for the clip, so when I fell, I fell back to the last clip, plus slack, plus rope stretch. Tony made a fantastic catch and stopped me about two feet short of the ground. But man you want to talk about sensations. Whoo doggie. Fifteen foot freefall indoors, only to get snapped back by the rope two feet from the ground. I now know why they call them "whippers."

Anyway, for the rest of the night, I had guys comin gup to me and saying things like "hey man, you the guy that took that whipper? that was rad, dude."
posted by LT2 11:35 AM ET |
discuss | link


Monday, April 16, 2001

Every week, Slate invites a guest to write a 5-part diary, which they post on their site in daily installments. One recent interesting one was written by Allison Silverman, a writer for The Daily Show with Jon Stewart, and gave some interesting behind-the-scenes insight into their writing process. Another one I liked was by Sarah Van Boven, an American newspaper editor who had been living in Hanoi for a year. Dave Eggers, author of A Heartbreaking Work of Staggering Genius wrote one.

Anyway, this week's diary is written by Owen West as he climbs Mount Everest. (Those of you who watched the recent Eco-Challenge will remember Owen as the token male on Team Playboy Extreme.)

Is he on the same expedition team as Laaz' friend Doug? I don't know.
posted by MES 6:58 PM ET | discuss | link


I'm now getting an unnacceptable amount of spam here on my office machine. Anyone have any advice on how to reduce it... filters maybe?
posted by LT2 2:17 PM ET | discuss | link

Latest from Everest Doug:

Hello all,
The skies are very gray tonight and there seems to be quite a lightening storm further down the valley, but given it's not too bad tomorrow morning, we'll be up through the icefall again to haul some gear up to Camp II. Given our strong aclimitization we are pretty much skipping Camp I and going straight on to Camp II. When you're doing a carry of gear, it's nice to get it as far as possible in one go. At 20,700ft Camp II is already higher than the summit of Mt McKinley in Alaska and still over 8000ft from the summit. We plan on spending a couple of nights at Camp II to continue our acclimitization and depending on how we're feeling, we may hike up to the base of the Lhotse face and stash some gear before returning to Base Camp. I'll let you know how it goes upon my return.
Best regards,

Doug
posted by LT2 1:57 PM ET |
discuss | link


Sunday, April 15, 2001

I missed this story last week, but the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences had to issue a formal apology to the members of the sound branch because of Mike Myers' dismissive jokes during the presentation. Apparently, that's against the rules.
posted by MES 1:05 AM ET | discuss | link