More from Doug on the cusp of the stratosphere:
"Well We're back at Base Camp from Camp II. A successful acclimatization and gear haul? Yes. Uneventful? Not really. A few days ago, we woke up early to make our way up to Camp II and dump a load of gear for the upper part of the mountain. My pack only weighed around 40lbs but it felt like a million pounds at this altitude. Going through the Khoumbu Ice Fall it turned out not to slow me down much, but I was amazed how much of the route had changed from our last trip through two days earlier. Snow ridges over crevasses had collapsed, seracs had tipped over (fortunately not crushing anyone), and large blocks wedged between even larger blocks that had formed a somewhat mercurial set of stepping stones had melted creating a whole new set of temporary stones. The largest and most surprising change was right below Camp I where a football field sized crevasse had opened it's gapping maw and we now had to climb down into it's throat picking our way across and climb out the other side!. From Camp I up to Camp II it is only another two hours, but because it is pretty much a straight slog up the khoumbu and because the altitude is really starting to work you at this point, It seems much longer than the 4hour climb through the icefall. Fortunately for us it was overcast most of the way and intermittently snowing -that beautiful snow where occasionally the sun filters it's way through giving each initial snowflake it's own luminescence like some atmospheric phosphorescence. We slowly picked our way over and around larger crevasses some 3 to 15 feet across others of which were only 6 inches across but plunged hundreds of feet into the glacier. These little six inches will be the football field crevasses when they hit the steeper pitches above Camp I and at the top of the ice field. The last 300 yards up to Camp II felt more like 3 miles, but when we arrived, Babu Chiri's guys, who we are climbing the mountain with, had already put in one large tent at camp II to store gear and where we could melt snow for water and cook up our meals. After having some quick hot tea, Brant, Rick, Lahwang (a Berkley climber on our team) and I went out into the snow to chip out a couple of pads for our tents. If you have ever chipped out a pad for a tent in steep consistent snow, now imagine doing it at 20,900 ft (higher than the summit of McKinley) and where the ground is not the nice solid snow on top of a glacier, but all solid ice mixed with well embedded rocks of all sizes. Needless to say it was a little exhausting after a 6 hr climb up. The tents wouldn't be completely flat, but at least there would be two relatively flat areas inside of each to get some sleep on. The snow which provided some cover from the sun earlier in the day, decided to stick around and by the! e time we had crawled into our bags there were several fresh inches. Expecting the normal pattern of snow in the afternoons and clear skies in the morning we drifted off to sleep. Unfortunately the snow had other plans and we woke practically buried in our tents. Our plans to go up to the base of the Lhotse face were sunk. It would be too grueling work breaking trail up there and besides, there were too many avalanches coming off of Everest and Lhotse to make it that safe. So we spent a fitful day tent bound. One of the ironies here was that while it never ceased to snow the sun made it's way through the thin air and heated our tents to such a degree that at one point in the middle of the day I found myself in only my long underwear bottoms lying on my ridge rest with the tent flaps open and snow gently dusting me from time to time... and I was still hot. We broke the day of acclimatization up with a couple of macaroni or noodles or whatever "fancy" bland food we could ! bring ourselves to eat at altitude. I think people often think that those of us out on "great" adventures are often contemplating the important things in life, when most of the time what we are really thinking about is the food we are going to eat when we get back- crab cakes at the Ivy, Lobster ravioli at Chaya, a steak at the Palm, or an In & Out Burger on the way to or from climbing in Yosemite. The truth is there is a lot of time to think and if there is one thing that the mountains can definitely give you is a sense of the infinite and in doing so your relative insignificance within that infinite universe. Not in an existential sense but simply on an actual magnitude and temporal scale. It is then surviving in that lonely environment of the infite, in the very face of your insignificance that gives you an insight to whatever slight significance there may actually be inside of you. Oh. Also the other food I crave are the tuna fish sandwiches Lauren makes for me on Sun! day's when I'm making my way through a tonne of work.
Anyways, during the night the snow turned into a full fleged storm with 40-60mile/hr winds ripping at our tents and another 10 inches of snow that piled on us in the night. There was also an inch of snow inside the tent covering my sleeping bag. I had to leave a vent open in the ceiling of the tent and the wind was so strong that it blew the snow up between the rain fly and the main tent and through the vent. It was a cold and fairly sleepless night. We knew there were other teams down at Camp I, but we were the only four people who had advanced to Camp II to spend some time acclimitizing so far. At around 6:00am there was a break in the weather, so we quickly metled some ice for water and headed down the Khoumbu wanting to make it our choice whether we would spend another night at that altitude not the weather's. The icy wind that chased us down the Khoumbu made me fondly remember the heat wave of yesterday as we periodically stopped to turn our Gortexed backs into the wind! at particularly nasty gust. We slipped quickly down the Khoumbu (we didn't have on our crampons because with all the new snow they would have just balled up with snow and made it even more treacherous), but we were also being careful not to step into those crevasses that yesterday simply seemed pesky obstacles to our ascent and were now covered with a deceptive layer of snow. We made it back to Base Camp in just over 3 hrs with our trip through the Ice Fall being uneventful (except that many of the blocks of ice now covered in a few inches of snow looked at times more like a field of giant marshmallows than anything more menacing). The storm has chased us all the way to Base Camp and it's lightly snowing as I sit here typing. Funny, for those other teams (most of them) who spent the last couple of days at Base Camp the weather on the mountain was probably as eventful as it was to you. Hope none of you are caught in any storms right now literally or otherwise.
All the best,
Doug