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Friday, May 04, 2001

Wanna have some fun, head on over to this Esquire magazine link and download Scott Anderson reading his article "What I did on my summer vacation." This is the true story of how four journalists vacationing in the Balkans were mistaken for a CIA hit team and inadvertently caused a real CIA hit team to be assembled and dropped in Sarajevo. Funny stuff. Very PJ O'Rourke.
posted by LT2 1:37 PM ET | discuss | link

Thursday, May 03, 2001

Those SprintPCS bastards!

A couple months ago I decided to get a new cellphone. My Nokia was acting crazy, with all kinds of weird crap on the display, make it pretty much unreadable. The phone still basically worked, in that I could make and receive calls, but if I wanted to do anything else with it, I'd have to have memorized the menu options. Now occasionally, the problem would go away and it would act perfectly normal for a day or so, but then it would right back to spewing gibberish. So, I waited until Amazon had one of their $50 coupons, and bought a new phone last week. It's amazing how tiny and cheap phones are nowadays. I paid $79 for mine, after the coupon. Now, I should probably take a moment to point out that my Nokia no longer needs replacing. It's actually been acting perfectly fine for about a month now. However, I promised myself a new phone, and I'm not the kinda guy to go back on a promise, especially one that lets me get a new toy to play with.

I went home this afternoon to take Jade to the vet, and saw a FedEx guy waiting for the elevator holding an Amazon box. I asked him if that was for 702 and, luckily for me, it was. (Why lucky? Well, for some reason that I can't quite fathom, my condo and FedEx do not get along, which means that FedEx either will not or cannot leave packages at the front desk. UPS can, the Post Office can, but not them. So this makes it a real pain whenever I receive something shipped by FedEx. Unless of course I happen to find myself sharing the elevator with the FedEx guy on the right day, but this is the first time that's actually happened.)

So I've got my new phone, which is at home charging its battery, and I go onto the SprintPCS web page to find out what I have to do to transfer my service to the new phone. And this is where the bastardness comes in. They have a $34.99 "phone activation fee." Now what the hell is that? That's almost half of what I paid for the damn phone, and is equivalent to almost three months of service for me! I can't imagine what sort of Herculean effort is going to be required on their part in order to justify that fee. In fact, you're supposed to be able to do the transfer right on their web page, which means it shouldn't even require any human labor. However, when I try to do it on the web, I get an error. Which means I'm condemned to one of two fates: calling Customer Care, or visiting the SprintPCS store. Those of you who have ever had to call SprintPCS Customer Care, or waited in line at one of their stores, know what a difficult choice that is. Ugggh.

(And a special extra thanks to the bastard-like Blogger, for eating that entire post and making me recompose it from scratch.)
posted by MES 7:31 PM ET |
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Any of you 3LPers got a problem with Dodgeball? My POV on this is that I have exactly the kind of personailty that should have made me a prime target for the kind of emotional distress that dodgeball's detractors worry about the most. But my memories of the game are mostly pleasant. I always took the game very seriously and felt very good about myself when I played a good game and managed to stay in it for a while before getting knocked out. We also played another version of the game called Pin Elimination, where each kid got a bowling pin and had to protect it from getting knocked down. They eventually replaced the pins with 2 liter coke bottles for safety, but eventually, even that game got banned for "safety reason." I remember being really upset when they told us we couldn't play pin elimination anymore.
posted by LT2 12:19 PM ET | discuss | link

Wednesday, May 02, 2001

Here's a link to Doug's expedition web page. Lots of interesting info and I've linked you directly to the photo gallery, in case anyone is wondering what Doug looks like, he's the guy writing on a palm pilot in picture 3.
posted by LT2 5:37 PM ET | discuss | link

Tuesday, May 01, 2001

Well, as it turns out, of all the expeditions on Everest, not only did Doug KNOW Babu Chiri Sherpa, they were on the SAME TEAM!!! Here's the whole sad tale:

May 1st. An incredibly sad morning for all at Base Camp as we've just seen Babu Chiri Sherpa's prayer-scarf entombed body, once so bursting with life, off to Kathmadu by Helicopter. Babu died two nights ago at Camp II when he accidentally fell into an unseen crevasse. He, Boca and Dawa (Babu's brother) had arrived at Camp II early that day (April 29th) and were resting before beginning the difficult process of carrying loads the following day from Camp II directly to Camp IV. Babu took a nap after lunch and in the early evening decided to get a couple of video shots of the sunset. He walked 200 meters South of our camp and evidently fell through a completely hidden crevasse 30m to his death. It is surmised from the amount of blood and the fact that he was wedged upside down in the crevasse that he was not stuck there long suffering. It wasn't until 9 or 10 that night that they realized he was missing. After a brief search, the body was discovered around 12am. When word went out to Base Camp over 30 sherpas went up the mountain to help in the process of bringing the body down. Babu is survived by a wife and six daughters. We (Rick, Brant and I) had been resting down in Deboche when we heard the fractured news that something had happened to Babu, it didn't look good, but it also was very unclear. We packed our gear and raced back to Base Camp (trekkers usually take 3 days or more to make the trip we did it in 6 hrs of quick hiking). We made a stop on the way up at a point about half way between Periche and Lobuche where there is a memorial sight to herpa's who have died on Everest. A mismatch of Cairns and Memorials each it's own irregular shape, size and existing within it's own private space on that gray windswept plateau below the Everest massive. We carefully built a rocky spire topped with Juniper branches in the middle of the hail storm that raged around us and continued on our way. It was miserable weather all the way back to Base Camp, windy, hailing and then a full on snow blizzard around Gorak Shep as if Sagmartha herself was tormented by Babu's senseless death. But as we arrived in Base Camp under the cover of nigh€t, the wind had calmed, the sky had cleared to a starry half-moonlit night as somber, but as beautiful as the scene we came upon. We found Babu's body laid out in the large domed Mountain HardWare tent. The room was lit with Candles and incense and was packed with a patchwork of down and Gortexed clad Sherpas. Lahwang and two other Sherpa's from other expeditions, who were also Lama's were chanting and someone was busy handing out milk tea. The vigil went on like that throughout the night. His death is not only an immense loss to his family, but the Sherpa people, the country of Nepal and humanity in general and I don't say that lightly. Let me explain. Babu has summited Everest 10 times, holds the speed record of an ascent from Base Camp to the summit of 16 hrs and has spent 21 hrs on the summit in a Mountain Hard Ware tent without oxygen a feat that doctors assumed was impossible. We were here this year so that he could get 2 more ascents of the mountain this season, securing that record as well (current record for most ascents is 11). Yet these "stunts" are not simply for personal gain or for ego. Babu with his partners, Karma and Lahwang have built a business, Nomad Expeditions, that is wholly Sherpa owned and run. Where most climbing Sherpa's are freelance, hoping to get an expedition in the Spring or the Fall that will pay for their whole year, Babu and his team are completely self sufficient. In addition to securing a better, brighter future for his and his own, Babu started a project to raise money to build schools in High altitude Sherpa communities (Thus the continued stunts). He has already built one and was in the process of building another. (The school project was another part of our expedition and in the 6 short weeks before we left for our trip we were able to raise $6,000). Babu's hope was that with a proper education, the climbing Sherpa's of tomorrow could build and control their own climbing businesses or more importantly would have a choice whether to climb at all or not. Ironically, Babu was pushing the limits of climbing so that the next generation wasn't left with that as their only career avenue. For all these things he's done and simply for being a role model, he will be greatly missed by the Sherpa people and the people of Nepal. But above all that, I have to add that having gotten to know Babu, if even briefly, in the last couple of months I can say he will be a large loss to humanity in general, because he was simply such a brilliant spirit. A fairly short and rotund 35 years old, Babu had a mischevous laugh that you could hear two tents away and find yourself breaking into a smile at the pure joy of it. He was very quick with a joke and even quicker with a smile. I remember in our first meeting when we were grilling him on climbing Everest and I asked him if there was any secret to keeping warm on the mountain. He paused, giving it some great thought, fired off something in Nepalese to Lahwang then looked at me and said "you could bring your girlfriend." And let out his contagious laugh. The world is in a great shortage of spirits like him. He'll be missed by all.

All the best,
Doug
posted by LT2 6:30 PM ET |
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It's funny. When I got this from Doug last week, just before my three day mountaineering course, I had very little idea what he was talking about. But now...

Hey All,
Someone was asking me about Crevasse danger and how we spotted them. For the most part on Everest they are large enough to be noticed or small enough not to worry about. And we try not to be around when they are growing from one to the other. However, there are those pesky ones that are from 6 inches to 2 feet that when you look down at them you can see that after about 2 feet down they widen out to a more gaping canyon. When we have had a fresh snow fall, usually there is enough of an indentation where the snow has temporarily filled in or sometimes a small build up, like a drift, that you can tell where the crevasses are. Often you are looking far to the left or the right to see where they are more open up to then get an idea of where they might run near you. The good thing again about Everest, is that even when the air warms up, the ground still remains fairly frozen and solid. I had one time when I was climbing Cayambe in Ecuador, when we found ourselves making our way through a giant field of small crevasses. Exactly those 6 inch cracks that open two feet down into 6 foot wide crevasses hundreds of feet deep. Sometimes there was no 6 inch crack, but simply a change in the texture of the snow that ran in a distinctive line to give away it's presence. It was about 1:30am and my friend Craig was roped to me and about 30 feet behind me. We were moving for the summit by headlamp at this time of night because the snow itself is firmer for walking on and the snow bridges over the crevasses are more solid. When I would come to one of those 6 inch openings, which was frequently, I would step from about two feet before it to two feet after it to increase my chance of not breaking the snow bridge. We went along like this for about a couple thousand vertical feet when I suddenly heard an "agghh" from Craig. (an "agghh"- no "falling" or "help", just "agghh") I drove my ice-axe into the glacier, dug in my cramponed boots and felt the jerk on the line. When I looked back from this crab-like position I could see Craig up to his chest in a crevasse. Fortunately, he still had his head and arms above the snow and was able to crawl out without my assistance. I immediately figured that not paying attention he had stepped right on one of these 6 inch cracks or had failed to see a distinct change in the snow pattern, but on our way down several hours later I saw the hole he had created and saw that there were no real markings in the snow around there whatsoever. I had simply probably lucked out and not stepped in the exact wrong spot that he had. So, on some mountains it's a little bit of luck and that's why we rope together. Here, for the most part, it's fairly obvious where to and where not to step. For the most part.
All the best,
Doug
P.S. Cayambe at around 17-18,000ft is an absolutely stunning Volcanic peak, where you look down from the summit 10,000 ft to the high Andean Plain on one side and15,000 ft to the cloud ceiling over the rainforest on the other.
posted by LT2 12:06 PM ET |
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Well folks, 17 hours of driving, about a million knots, and so many self-arrest attempts that I burned through a brand new pair of Gore-Tex snow pants later, I have returned. Stories to come as soon as I get the pictures developed. How was everyone else's weekends?
posted by LT2 11:32 AM ET | discuss | link